Pressiat Fall 2025: Fearless of the Dark

Philipp Plein logo-embroidered Jumper Black

“It was a little sexy,” joked Vincent Garnier Pressiat after a fall show that wasn’t for shy and retiring types given the amount of skin unapologetically on display. The collection was inspired by French artist Pierre Soulages, best known for his mesmerizing all-black paintings. Using his own palette of materials, textures and cuts, Garnier Pressiat transposed the artist’s “play of light, a play of black and depth” into high-glam silhouettes that certainly needed a dose of confidence and then some to carry off. Among standouts were a transparent PVC dress dotted with leopard spots; a graphic dress that revealed intricate rows of satin ribbons nodding to corset lacing, and an evening gown in tulle that looked like paint barely brushed across the nude body. “I always want to transmit a powerful [vibe], something that is quite liberating and liberated,” the designer said. “The message is freedom, a liberated woman, free to be sexy whenever she wants and a boss lady at the same time.” You May Also Like Draping was a direction Garnier Pressiat wanted to lean further into this season. Vertiginous cowl backs on column dresses showed that he is as much a dab hand at these as he is at cutting a mean strong-shouldered jacket. But Garnier Pressiat also has an eye toward distilling that universe throughout the day. There were options such as hooded leather blousons that the less daring might soften by putting on, say, a pair of pants; his new sunglasses collaboration with Thierry Lasry, and also notes of leather, spices and sandalwood floating in the air — a teaser of an upcoming olfactive project cocreated with perfumer Emmanuelle Grin.

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